SWEET PEAS-

Posted by: admin  :  Category: Gardening

A most popular annual, the sweet pea (lathyrus odoratus) is not difficult to grow, though the richer the soil the better the results. Given good cultivation it will produce stems 2ft. long bearing four, five or more florets. Elegant, graceful and fragrant, with the exception of yellow, it will provide every color of the spectrum and dozens of different tones or shades. It is a ‘cut-and-come-again’ annual; indeed, every other day blooms should be gathered to keep the plants in full production.
Soils-
Land enriched with farmyard manure at the rate of one barrowful to each strip of 15ft. by 4ft., dug in autumn or early winter into the second spit of soil and fortified by ½lb. Of bonemeal, will give the best results, or good garden compost at the same rate will serve.

When to sow-
In the north sow from late September to 7th October. In the Midlands and the south, from the 5th to the 21st October. It is best to sow in a shallow frame, otherwise the plants tend to get drawn; the aim is short, stocky plants.
Sowing-
Six seeds to a 6-in. pot, sown an inch from the edge is ideal; or if boxes are used sow the seeds 2in. apart each way. Sow ¾ in. deep. Use a moist compost of three parts of sieved loam, 1 part of peat and 1 part of coarse sand. Cover the pots or boxes with thick layers of paper to prevent drying out; replace the framelights after placing slug pellets between the pots or boxes. Set a couple of moist-traps, for mice find the seeds irresistible. Inspect after a week and as soon as the shoots appear remove the paper. Water if necessary, and after a day or two open up the frames and do not replace the lights unless frost is threatened. In hard or severe frost keep the lights down and cover them with old carpets or sacks. Never let the sun shine on pots and boxes if the soil within them is frozen, since a quick thaw does great damage to the plants. Springtime sowing will require a greenhouse. When the plants have four leaves pinch out the growing points to induce side shoots. When these are 1 ½in. long, harden off the plants by placing the pots or boxes in a frame or under the south wall of the greenhouse. For a late spring sowing the seeds may be sown ¾in. deep, like garden peas. Always put down slug killer.
Planting-

Never plant out until the soil on the plot has been reduced to a fine tilth. Then erect the canes if the plants are to be grown cordon style. A strong support at each end of each row will be necessary, with a cross-bar at a height of 5 ft. Double rows, 2 ft. apart, are best, as this helps when it is time to layer. Stretch strong wire from the end of each cross-bar, insert 8-ft. tall canes, 7 in. apart, and secure them to the wire using a trowel, make holes to receive the plants on the outside of each cane, to facilitate layering. If the plants are to be in circles, they should be planted inside the circle of hazel sticks or brushwood. If a circle of netting is to be made, plant first and surround with the netting. Spread the roots and return the soil, so that it just covers the white collar of the plants. If a plant has a brown collar, reject it. It may grow to a height of 3 or 4 ft. and then collapse. Always surround each plant with small twigs. Black cotton stretch across the twigs will deter sparrows. Never allow the land or the plants to become dry. Water the former and spray the latter.

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